Walking The Pembrokeshire Coast Path: A Hiker’s Complete Guide

Skomer Island

Quick Guide

• Where: Pembrokeshire, South West Wales
• Distance: 186 Miles / 300km
• Difficulty: moderate, with 10,668 metres total ascent/descent
• Start: Amroth, Wales
• Finish: St Dogmaels near Cardigan, Wales
• Time: 10 – 15 days
• Terrain: footpaths, tracks, small amounts of tarmac/roads

Contents

The Route

The trail follows the dramatic coastline of south west Wales along the edge of the UK’s only coastal national park, which means you can expect stunning landscapes most of the way.

Welsh history and its unique culture are an integral part of the journey, from castles and cathedrals to bustling seaside towns and harbours – I even loved walking past the heavy industry around Pembroke Dock! It all adds to the unique experience.

For me, this hike was three years in the making, postponed again and again before I got to tick it off my bucket list this summer. The last day was the toughest and most rewarding, and getting to the finish line in St Dogmael’s felt incredible; definitely worth the wait! In this comprehensive guide, I’ll share everything I learned to help you plan your own adventure, from what to pack and when to go, to tips for wild camping and unmissable highlights. So put the kettle on, get comfy and be ready to be inspired to make own fantastic memories on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

Where Does The Pembrokeshire Coast Path National Trail Start And Finish?

At the start of the trail in Amroth

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path starts in Amroth, a small seaside town on the south coast of Pembrokeshire in south west Wales. It ends roughly 186 miles later in St Dogmaels, a lovely riverside village close to the market town of Cardigan.

Find out about transport to and from the trail below.

Looking for a different coastal hike? Try this one Plan Your South West Coast Path Hike The Easy Way!

How Long Is The Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

Saundersfoot, a short distance from Amroth

When you plan your itinerary, I recommend enough time to hike 200 miles, which could add a day to your hike. The extra miles account for short walks up to campsites, and off-trail visits to places like St David’s for supplies, as well as any high tide diversions.

Discover more about planning an itinerary in this article: How To Plan A Hike Like A Pro – 27 In-Depth Tips!

Alternative Routes

The trail has three alternative routes that take into account the tide at two estuaries, as well as the Castlemartin Firing Range.

Sandy Haven And Dale Estuaries

Both estuaries are passable via stepping stones for 3 hours either side of high tide, and, if you time it right, you can cross Sandy Haven and Dale within a few hours of each other. If you’re unlucky, you can take the alternative routes around the estuaries that add about 4.3 miles at Sandy Haven and 3 miles at Dale.

Guess Who Was Unlucky And Missed Low Tide?!

High tide at Sandy Haven (Sandy Haven Campsite is across the water)

Sandy Haven

Hmm… I resigned myself to the extra miles and started the alternative route at Sandy Haven. It heads up a road to the village of Herbrandston, where I took a wrong turn at one of the few badly signed sections on the trail. Fortunately, I’d walked onto a housing estate where two men popped out of nowhere to tell me I’d gone wrong – and one of them offered me a lift! (Hikers often find themselves wandering onto the estate since a resident replaced her fence but didn’t bother to replace the national trail sign.)

I was reluctant to accept at first, feeling I ought to walk, until he told me he could drop me at the exact spot the stepping stones reached the other side. This meant I’d miss nothing, so I jumped at the offer. If you find yourself in a similar situation and someone offers you a lift, take it. The alternative route is a horrible winding road, with sharp bends, plenty of hills, and no footpath the entire way. The traffic is fast along this stretch; it was a relief not to hike it. I can’t thank the man (and his wife) enough for his kindness.

Dale: Wait For The Tide In A Cafe That’s Not Marked On The Trail

I had more good luck between Sandy Haven and Dale when I met another local and her daughter out walking their dog. They told me about a cafe in St Ishmael’s Garden Centre that’s easily accessible from the coast path (though it’s not signposted), where I could wait out the tide for the next crossing. Sadly, St Ishmael’s village pub, marked on the OS map, has now closed. Still, I can highly recommend the cafe! Here’s the route: St Ishmaels Garden Centre route from the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (you can download the gpx file for free).

View from West Dale Bay

Penally And Castlemartin Military Firing Ranges

Penally Firing Range near Tenby is shown on the OS Map, but is no longer used by the MOD. This means it’s permanently open to the public with no alternative routes to worry about. Castlemartin, on the other hand, is actively used, so when the red flags are flying, you’ll have to take the official alternative, the Castlemartin Range Trail.

Guess Who Had To Take The Castlemartin Alternative!

The perfect lunch spot near Broad Haven, on the edge of Castle Martin Firing Range

I was gutted. The Castlemartin Range Trail meant missing out on two highlights of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path: St Govan’s Chapel and the Green Bridge of Wales; two things I was looking forward to. Instead, the alternative, starting at Broad Haven, heads up through the lily ponds of Bosherton (National Trust) to pick up the Castlemartin Range Trail. Sadly, it’s as bad as it appears on the map! It’s not awful, but it is a trudge around field edges and grass paths beside main roads – without any views. Add to that the alarming sounds of machine gun fire and tanks, rather than waves and birdsong, and the frequent warnings to stick to the path – well, you get the picture. This link will show you the Castlemartin Trail I took on day 3.

Find out the Castlemartin Firing Range Times before you go so that you can plan around them if possible.

Which Direction Is Best?

Most people hike from Amroth in the south to St Dogmaels in the north to keep the prevailing winds behind them, which has two other benefits:

1. You walk from easier terrain towards the much more demanding cliff walking towards the end, giving yourself time to become accustomed to the effort
2. You save the best till last!

How Difficult Is The Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

St Davids Lifeboat Station, with Ramsey Island in the background

In my experience, I’d say the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is a moderately difficult trail overall with a total ascent and descent of 10,668 metres (35,000 feet).

It’s not a technically demanding trail, and you don’t need to do any map reading (although, at times, basic skills are helpful at junctions), but that’s not to say it doesn’t offer some challenges. There’s the distance of course, and the cliffs have plenty of ascent and descent to get the quads burning, particularly towards the end of the trail. This is something I enjoy, but it’s not everyone’s idea of fun, and not all challenges are about the terrain.

I found one of the most difficult things is getting supplies and water, which requires some planning. If you’re like me and prefer to wing it with minimal planning, this isn’t always as easy as it sounds! I enjoy the freedom of doing minimal planning and walking as far as I feel each day, but I do take lists of campsites I might use, grocery shops, and so on. This guide is much more comprehensive than that, though, so if you prefer to know what you’re doing each day and what to expect, don’t worry, you’ll find plenty of info here!

Finally, the trail is relatively quiet in places, sometimes for long stretches, which might be something you relish or hate.

Where Are The Easier Stretches?

North Beach, Tenby

From the start of the trail in Amroth, right around to Lydstep, you’ll enjoy big, sweeping views out to sea on relatively easy, often flat, terrain. The earlier stretches of trail around Carmathen Bay also include plenty of beautiful beaches to cross, especially at low tide. There are hills too, including a pretty steep one out of Amroth, but there aren’t the soaring cliffs you’ll discover towards the end of the trail. Take time to enjoy the views and get into the rhythm of hiking – and you won’t notice the gradual change in terrain!

Freshwater West

Which Is The Most Difficult Part Of The Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

St Davids Head

As I mentioned, the trail gradually becomes more strenuous as the miles go by, especially from St Davids Head onwards. However, the most difficult part of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is, undoubtedly, towards the end, from Newport Sands golf course to the cliffs near Poppit Sands. The cliffs get higher and higher (it reaches the highest point of the trail here at 175 metres/574 feet), and there are far more sharp ups and downs; sometimes it feels near vertical! The path is often very narrow and close to the cliff edge with sheer drops, and warning signs that indicate “Cliffs Kill”. There aren’t many ‘escape routes’ or anywhere to find food or water for about 12 miles. You can, however, come off the trail at Moylgrove, which makes it possible to do this stretch in two sections.

The phenomenal geology of the cliffs on the final day, where the terrain is much more challenging

These final miles are the most challenging, but also, by far, the most rewarding. The geology is spectacular, especially after Foel Hendre, when the folds in the cliffs take your breath away. You can’t help but think of a time, millions of years ago, when the earth was a seething molten mass…if I had the opportunity to hike any section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path again, it would be this one!

Oddly, there were plenty of hikers on this section, many out for day walks, making it less isolated and friendlier than other parts of the trail.

WARNING!

On the cliff path between Newport Sands and Ceibwr Bay (Ffynnon Coeg area) – this isn’t a drone shot!

If your vertigo is mild, you could pick up the path again at Moylgrove, where it’s still close to the edge, but the cliff slopes down into the sea rather than sheer drops (I’d still advise hiking with someone else). Either way, it’s worth walking down to Ceibwr Bay (with a beach) from Moylgrove to see the magnificence of the cliffs.

The Weather

This 12-mile section is definitely not one to hike in bad weather – strong winds or rain (the paths will be slippery). I hiked it in about 22 mph winds, and with the load on my back, I felt a little unnerved on a short section at the Newport end (I don’t have a fear of heights or vertigo, but I know how quickly the wind direction can change!). You’re funnelled on a narrow, one-person-wide path between a barbed wire fence on one side and a high, sheer drop on the other (around 100 metres, unfenced with little to no slope). If the wind was in the wrong direction or the path was muddy, it would be very treacherous: it could be game over! Two couples turned back; one before this section, because there’s a steep, rocky climb right at the start, and the other because of the drops.

That Said…

If the weather’s good and you like a mini thrill, I think you’ll love it! It’s absolutely worth it!

Is The Pembrokeshire Coast Path Suitable For Beginners?

Easy walking near Angle

Definitely. If you’re new to carrying a heavy rucksack, you may want to hike a maximum of 15 miles a day on the easier sections at the beginning, and around 12 miles a day towards the end, where the path becomes more challenging. Do some training on steep hills with your fully loaded rucksack (work up to some consecutive days), and you’ll be ready for an amazing adventure! You’ll be glad to know that navigation is easy, and there are lots of campsites along the way, too.

Is The Pembrokeshire Coast Path Safe For Solo Hikers?

Keeping safe on the trail is a matter of being aware of potential dangers, being as prepared as possible and avoiding unnecessary risks. However, I felt safe along the whole trail and would recommend it to any solo hiker. Here are the risks solo hikers should prepare for on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

A small herd of cattle on Wooltack Point with Skomer behind

• Accidents. Potential hazards include: cliff edges and long stretches where getting off the trail might be difficult; being cut off by the tides and swimming on unsafe beaches. Prepare by carrying a small first aid kit; know where you are on the path at any given time (so you can get off if you need to, or inform emergency services); check the tide times (use an app), and only swim at lifeguarded beaches
• Weather. The Welsh weather can change quickly, even in summer. Potential hazards include hypothermia, heat stroke, slipping on muddy paths, being blown off your feet in strong winds, and even being swept away by freak waves. Prepare by packing clothes for both warm and cold weather, as well as dry and wet weather, and carry an emergency foil bivvy bag. Don’t take unnecessary risks in wet or windy weather, especially on cliffs and beaches
• Poor mobile signal. The signal is often patchy, so I advise sending messages to your loved ones to let them know where you are when you have signal, rather than waiting till the end of the day. I share my location with Locate me from within the OS Maps app, but other navigation apps have similar functions, for example, Live Locator in Hiiker
• Livestock. Livestock can be a worry for solo hikers, and you’ll encounter both sheep and cattle along the trail, but surprisingly, for me at least, most of it was on the other side of a barbed wire fence! There were a few fields of cattle to navigate, but nothing like I’m used to here in Cornwall. The usual advice applies: walk around the herd if they’re on the path, never walk between a cow and her calf, or separate a calf from the herd, and walk quickly and quietly
• Crime. Fear, or wariness of strangers, is a particular concern for solo female hikers, but Pembrokeshire has a low crime rate, and I certainly didn’t feel any threat from other people. If you’re concerned, you might find my guide to wild camping useful, where there’s a bit more information on how to keep safe

When Is The Best Time To Go?

More About The Weather

The weather in Wales is unpredictable at all times of the year. I hiked the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in July, and on the first day, it was 32 degrees; on the second, 28 degrees; on the third, there were 47mph winds and pouring rain. Generally, daytime temperatures were around 20 degrees and at night about 15 degrees. There were windy, cold, wet days, and overcast, mizzly days with low visibility, often variable throughout the day, but there was plenty of sunshine too! With this much change, it’s wise to pack a down jacket or fleece, as well as leggings, and a warm enough sleeping bag.

Spring

As I mentioned, I hiked the trail in July, but there was still evidence of spring flowers, including the seed heads of foxgloves and bountiful thrift. You’ll also find swathes of bluebells and ransoms in woodland. On the alternative route around Castlemartin, you head up through Bosherton Lily Ponds from Broad Haven Beach. There were still a few flowers in July, but the number of them must look spectacular in late spring/early summer.

This is also a good time to see puffins and hear the manx shearwater (you can see them at dusk), as well as other sea birds, on a boat trip to Skomer Island (book ahead), where you’re likely to see seals, porpoises and dolphins too.

Summer

Strumble Head

Strumble Head Lighthouse

In the summer, the seas will be sparkling and an incredible blue-green colour; the heather will be in flower, turning some of the cliffs purple, and you’ll see lots of other wildflowers from purple loosestrife to sea campion, with plenty of variety depending on the habitat.

The bird life is varied, too, from choughs (everywhere!), cormorants and fulmars to the ever-present stonechat. Grey seals can often be seen, as well as porpoises and dolphins, especially in Ramsey Sound (I spotted one here). And, finally, the number of butterflies I saw was a beautiful surprise.

Another advantage of a summer hike is the length of daylight hours, allowing you to hike longer distances.

Autumn And Winter

There was bright green bracken everywhere in summer, and in autumn, it would turn the cliffs and footpaths a rich gold. There’ll be plenty of blackberries, too! And, if you enjoy foraging or spotting mushrooms, this is fungus season in the UK, and the trail offers many different habitats where you might see them.

Late autumn and winter offer many challenges from rain, gales and storms to a lack of facilities, including campsites and seasonal cafes. The trail will be even quieter and the days considerably shorter. It could prove to be a good time for section-hiking, though, especially on the earlier stages where there are towns and villages with more reliable places for resupply and possible accommodation.

Ticks!

Ticks are around at all times of year, but you’re most likely to see them between April and November. These tiny parasitic arachnids can carry Lyme disease, so it’s wise to check yourself regularly, especially if you’ve been pushing through bracken. Remove any ticks that attach themselves to you with tick tweezers, and keep an eye open for symptoms of Lyme disease for several weeks afterwards. Four or five ticks made their way onto my clothing over the hike, luckily none attached to my skin – that I know of!

Pembrokeshire Coast Path – The Highlights

Entrance to The Witch’s Cauldron at Ceibwr Bay. Spot the kayakers!

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path National Trail undoubtedly saves the best till last: the final day’s hike was superb. However, there’s plenty to experience before then, from stunning beaches and magnificent headlands, to historical towns, castles and antiquities. Here are just a few.

The pristine sands of Barafundle Beach

10 Places To See Along The Trail

With 200 miles of fantastic hiking, it’s difficult to pick 10 highlights, so the list below isn’t extensive; it’s just a snapshot.

• Bosherton Lily Ponds (external link)
• Pembroke Castle (details below)
• Barafundle Beach (photo above)
• St David’s Cathedral and town (see below)
• St David’s Head. There are Lots of ancient remains, including Coetan Arthur Neolithic tomb. (Photo below.)
• Strumble Head and lighthouse (photos above)
• Ramsey Island and Sound (look out for dolphins and seals!) (photo above)
• Dinas Head (fantastic views from the trig point)
• Witch’s Cauldron – incredible pools and rocks (photo above)
• Cliffs after Foel Hendra (the most challenging section)

The two things I wish I’d had the opportunity to see are the Green Bridge of Wales, a huge natural rock arch, and St Goven’s Chapel at the base of St Goven’s Head, the most southerly tip of Wales (external links).

Have you hiked the trail already? What would you add to my list? Share your ‘not-to-be-missed’ highlights in the comments!

Coetan Arthur neolithic tomb on St Davids Head, with Ramsey Island in the background

A Couple Of Side Trips Worth Taking

Pembroke Castle

Pembroke Castle seen from the trail

You don’t need to leave the trail to visit Pembroke Castle, so if you have the time, I recommend a couple of hours here. The sheer scale of the Norman castle is impressive, and a climb up the keep gives spectacular views.

Spectacular views from Pembroke Castle keep

In 2025, Pembroke Castle was £12.00 to enter (there’s a refundable £5.00 deposit if you’d like to leave your rucksack in a secure chest for your visit), which includes an hour-long guided tour. I took the tour, which was great fun and full of history and interesting stories, then asked the guide for the bits they’d recommend seeing on limited time. Their recommendations were spot on and included a climb up the keep and a visit into a massive natural cave below, where archaeological digs have unearthed Neolithic remains.

There’s also a really good cafe that has plenty of sockets that you’re free to use to charge up.

St Davids Cathedral

St Davids is a beautiful, characterful town no more than a mile off the trail. It has a large supermarket for stocking up and plenty of popular places to eat too.

St Davids Cathedral is worth seeing alone. I got there at 8:30 one Sunday morning, needing a trip to the supermarket, forgetting that it wouldn’t open until 10am, so spent a bit of time wandering the magical cathedral grounds. There was a service going on, so I didn’t get to see the inside, but the architectural details outside left me in awe – and the bell ringing was pretty atmospheric too.

St Davids Cathedral is a short walk off the coast path (St Davids is also ideal for resupply or to try out one of the many cafes and pubs)

On the way back down to the trail, look out for the ruins of St Non’s Chapel; she was the mother of St David, patron saint of Wales, and this spot is said to be his birthplace.

How Many Days Does It Take To Hike The Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

Allow a minimum of 10 days to hike the full trail, especially if you plan to do anything more than stomp along (an average of 20 miles per day). There are so many things to experience on this trail that it would be a shame to miss out, so I recommend an 11 or 12-day hike for faster hikers (16 – 18 miles a day). A more comfortable pace might take between 14 – 16 days (12.5 – 14 miles a day).

However many miles a day you hike, I advise doing more miles a day on the earlier stages and fewer on the final day, which is far more physically demanding. And, if you’ve got some good weather, you might want to take a few swims at the fabulous beaches along the way!

My Itinerary

In total, I walked 202.5 miles, including walks to campsites and into St Davids and Newport for supplies.

I was away for 13 days, including 2 days of travel, and hiked all but 4 miles of the trail in 11 days. Pembroke Castle and St Davids were part of the adventure, and I spent half a day each exploring those, so if you’re more keen to stick to the trail, you could easily turn this itinerary into a 10-day hike, excluding travel.My Daily Miles

Can You Wild Camp On The Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

Officially, no, you can’t wild camp on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path without the landowner’s permission. However, I spent 6 fantastic nights wild camping, mostly on cliff tops and headlands, with one woodland camp. Some backpackers I met had also camped on quieter beaches.

The biggest barrier to wild camping on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path was the terrain.

A cliff top wild camp with a view towards Stackpole Head

Small Tent, Big Decision: How To Pick A 1-Person Backpacking Tent

No Camping Signs

In some places on this trail, you’ll notice ‘no camping’ signs. I respect these because they can often be in sensitive habitat areas, or on busy beaches, where camping could encourage the less-than-respectful wild camping that proliferated during Covid days.

The best way to wind down at the end of the day

However, the biggest barrier to wild camping on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path was the terrain; there are often long stretches where on one side you’re walking beside a field of livestock behind a barbed wire fence, with a cliff edge on the other. There are also plenty of rocky sections. Use a map, or Google Maps, to check the terrain. Fences and boundaries are marked with a thin black line on OS maps, so if you see one close to a cliff edge, it’s unlikely you’ll find a decent camping spot.

Then, there’s the long stretch of urban walking from Angle Bay to beyond Milford Haven (day 5) to consider. Rather than worrying about finding somewhere to wild camp along this 25-mile stretch (unlikely), I recommend factoring in some campsites. I stayed at Windmill Hill Caravan Park just outside Pembroke (where I spent the morning visiting the castle) and Sandy Haven Campsite, Herbrandston, which is right on the trail.

If you’re new to wild camping, you might find The Ultimate Guide To Wild Camping In The UK helpful.

Campsites On The Pembrokeshire Path

Despite the dodgy-looking sign, I highly recommend Celtic Camping – it was the best campsite I stayed at!

One look at an OS map will show you that you won’t be stuck for campsites on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, though it’s likely you’ll have to head off the trail. There are a few youth hostels too.

I’ve written a separate post, Walkers Welcome: Campsites On The Pembrokeshire Coast Path, including full reviews of the 6 that I stayed at – from the good to the bad! They include:

• Castle Farm Campsite, Angle
• Windmill Hill Caravan Park, Pembroke
• Sandy Haven Campsite
• West Hook Farm Campsite, Marloes
• Celtic Camping and Bunkhouse, near St Davids
• Cardigan Camping and Caravan Park

Thorne Island, Angle Bay

Is The Pembrokeshire Coast Path Signposted?

Route Finding

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is easy to follow using the acorn National Trails symbol. Look out, too, for small green and yellow arrow signs, with a walker, on gates, posts and stiles. They’ll either read (in small writing) Pembrokeshire Coast Path or Pembrokeshire National Park (the NP ones usually head off trail, even if not very far).

Maps And Guides

Why Take A Map?

Although you don’t strictly need them, a map or app is useful to confirm directions at junctions and to give an overview so you can find villages and towns off-trail.

There are 2 great paper map series:

• OS Explorer Maps numbers 35 and 36 and
• Harvey’s map 3 in the Wales Coast Path series

Navigation Apps

I use the premium version of the OS Explore app, however there are other great apps including Hiiker – let us know which one you use in the comments!

Guidebooks

• Trailblazer – always my favourite to use before any trip
• Cicerone – I didn’t use Cicerone for this trip, but they’re usually pretty good, though perhaps not as detailed at Trailblazer, and the one for the Pembrokeshire Coast Path comes with a useful OS Maps booklet

You can follow the main route on the OS Maps App or download the GPX file for free (button below). Alternatively, you can follow my daily routes listed in my itinerary above.

View and Download The Route

Travel – Public Transport

Amroth – How To Get To The Start Of The Pembrokeshire Coast Path

By Train

There are regular services to Kilgetty Railway Station, which is 3 miles from the start of the trail in Amroth. Kilgetty is on the Chester to Newport (South Wales) line operated by Transport for Wales (TFW). It’s straightforward to use the National Rail Map to work out your best route, and this article tells you how to get the best price train tickets: How To Plan A Backpacking Trip – Including Best Price Travel!

How to Get From Kilgetty Railway Station To Amroth (3 miles)

• Walk – plan your own route using an app like OS Maps
• Bus – service 351 operated by Taf Valley Coaches
• Taxi – try T&S Taxis

By Coach

• The closest National Express stop for the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is Tenby (with bus and taxi links to Amroth). Use the National Express Route Map to find out if this is a viable means of travel for you.
• You can travel on the Megabus service to Swansea where there are train links to Kilgetty (see above). Check the Megabus Network Map
• You could also try Check My Bus to see what’s available from your area.

St Dogmaels – Transport Links At The End Of The Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Bus and Rail

The trail ends in St Dogmaels, which is less than 2 miles from the town of Cardigan. However, there’s no railway station in Cardigan, so the best option is to take the bus south to Carmarthen (service 460 operated by Richards Bros) or north to Aberystwyth (service T5 operated by Richards Bros), where there are rail connections around the country.

Coach

Check the National Express Route Map or the Megabus Network Map to find your closest connections.

St Dogmael’s, the end of my Welsh journey

How Much Does It Cost To Hike The Pembrokeshire Path?

The total cost of my trip was £484.67 (13 days)

For me, this wasn’t a budget hike — I blew the budget out of the water.

Frequent eating out was an expensive way to charge my phone – but it meant I got to sample some great cafes!

Many things went wrong, which meant it cost a fortune for me to hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. I stayed at twice the number of campsites I planned for, once because of a storm, the second because I had difficulty finding somewhere to pitch late in the day, and found a campsite just off the path, and the third because I was desperate to charge my phone.

The issue was a Google Play Services update that was constantly running GPS in the background.

My phone had a lot to answer for. It drained in less than a day (even in aeroplane mode) and as a consequence, my 2 battery banks were drained in a few days, and they took too long to fully charge. This accounted for the extortionate amount I spent in cafes plugged into a socket, and feeling so guilty, I bought more than I usually might. Add to that, running out of gas and not finding any for four days, which meant eating breakfast and lunch, sometimes an evening meal (chips), in cafes too (plus supermarket ‘meal deals’ when I could find them). I gave up.

It proved very expensive to use my phone for OS Maps and video clips. This, however, I discovered later, was not the real issue: the issue was a Google Play Services update that was constantly running GPS in the background, even when I was (often) in aeroplane mode – and it wasn’t an option; it was automatically turned on with the update (without any notification) and I had no idea. I was furious! Hopfully, I’ll have better luck on my next hike: Wainwright’s Coast to Coast.

The cost of groceries and eating out averaged £21.04 per day for 13 days (which includes travel days), and the average daily spend for the whole trip was an eye-watering £37.28. Money seemed to drain away very quickly, and I was wringing my hands and full of anxiety, but I don’t regret it: it was a fantastic experience. I’m just glad I had a contingency!

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Thank you so much for reading this mega guide! I hope it’s helped and inspired you to plan your trip, but If you’ve got any more questions, drop them in the comments – I’d love to help.

Happy hiking in Pembrokeshire!