Walking The South Downs Way: A Complete Guide To This Classic English Trail

For The Love Of Walking

Being battered by strong winds and torrential rain, sick with a virus and exhaustion — it was a far cry from the baking heat and cloudless skies I experienced when I first hiked in the South Downs, when I was 17. Back then, on my first backpacking trip, I went youth hostelling with school friends.

Almost 40 years later, in 2021, I celebrated that first trip by going back to the South Downs to hike the South Downs Way. It was a glorious walk, despite the stinking weather and sickness of the first few days.

The skies are are as wide as I remembered, the white chalk tracks just as blinding in strong sunlight — and the views just as breathtaking.

The South Downs is perfect walking country, whether you’re taking your first steps on a long-distance trail, or have 40 years of experience under your boots — I highly recommend it.

How Get To And From the Trail

By Train

Winchester is on several routes from around the country, including London, Oxford, Birmingham, and Manchester. Train operators are Southern Railway and CrossCountry

Eastbourne train station is on a route from London Victoria operated by Southern Railway

By Coach

National Express coaches serve both Winchester and Eastbourne from around the country. Check National Coach Travel for details of other coach companies

• How To Get To Hiking Trails On Public Transport — including how to get the best priced train tickets, network rail maps and more

Are There Any Challenges On The Trail?

The Weather

When the rain lashes down and gale force winds howl all day, life can be tough on top of the hills. There’s little shelter: this is an exposed landscape. In bad spring weather, I really felt the cold, so I’d pack at least a lightweight pair of gloves and a hat, just in case you’re caught out.

Equally, the exposure can be troublesome on clear, sunny days: check the forecast and take suncream and a sun hat. I usually double up with a baseball cap, obviously it’s great for the sun, but in the rain, under my hood, it helps keep the rain off my glasses. I use the Met Office for local weather forecasts.

And, with exposure to the sun and heat, you’ll need plenty of water.

Water

Without going miles off the trail, water sources are often scarce. For that reason, water taps have been installed along the route. To make sure you don’t miss them, you can check the list below and print off the pdf of the locations.

How Long Does It Take?

Experienced long-distance walkers can hike the trail in five days, excluding travel. A more leisurely pace would take seven to eight days.

I planned for seven days, so that I could do some drawing along the way, but illness meant I had to add an extra day.

Towards the end of the trail, there wasn’t much opportunity for wild camping, so when you plan your itinerary, bear in mind campsites are about 15 miles apart.

My South Downs Way Itinerary

1. 7.5 miles. I arrived in Winchester late in the day, hence the short distance. Wild camped
2. 16 miles. Wild camped
3. 15.5 miles. Wild camped
4. 10 miles. Short day due to illness. Foxleigh Barn campsite (campsite no longer open)
5. 16.5 miles. Includes a short detour into Amberley village. YHA Truleigh Hill (camping)
6. 14.5 miles. Housedean Farm Campsite
7. 15 miles. Alfriston Campsite (includes short walk off-trail)
8. 14 miles. Includes a walk to Eastbourne Pier and railway station (I stayed at a campsite out of town)

109 miles total

• Campsites on the South Downs Way
• My South Downs Way Sketchbook Journal

When’s Best Time To Walk The South Downs Way?

Spring and summer have to be the best seasons to plan your trip.

I was stopped in my tracks by the colours of the landscape — huge, slate-grey skies against fields of yellow rapeseed, frothy white flowers soft against the heavy mist hiding the hills, and those chalk-white tracks cutting through lush green fields. It was a joy for my senses. And the light was spectacular — it’s one of the things I remembered most from my first trip — clouds drifting across those big skies creating shadows that changed the landscapes from dark to light in seconds. It really was a landscape I wanted to paint.

You can walk the trail at any time of year, but in winter, the exposure to the worst of the weather, from icy paths to strong winds and rain, will bring a set of challenges you’ll either love or hate. Having had some pretty bad weather in May, including hail storms and 50-mile-an-hour winds, a winter hike would be more about endurance than stopping to watch the skies. You could take heart in some cosy pubs along the way, but bear in mind campsites are likely to be closed between October and Easter, and some water taps might be turned off, too.

Highlights From The Trail

Top of my list of highlights, ones that memories are made of, as I’m sure you’ve guessed, were those big skies and views for miles. But there were the unexpected experiences as well. It’s such a sociable trail; there were probably more cyclists than backpackers doing the full trail, but that’s not to say you won’t meet plenty of day walkers. One local lady I walked with for a few miles was full of stories of the Downs. It was a privilege to meet someone who knows the landscape as intimately as she did, and I learnt a lot.

As well as the landscape, and the swathes of cowslips and bluebells, there’s the wildlife. Seeing majestic Red Kites sailing the skies was wonderful — they’re huge! (We don’t get them in Cornwall, so it was a novelty.)

Finally, for me, the archaeological evidence of ancient history was fascinating. From the Bronze Age barrows and burial mounds at Winchester Hill, to the Iron Age hill forts like Chactonbury Ring, the landscape came alive.

Navigation On The South Downs Way

Which Is The Best Direction To Hike The Trail?

How do you like your hikes to finish? That’s the question I’d ask myself for this trail.

During windier months, you might prefer to walk west to east to keep the wind on your back; otherwise it really is down to the finish.

Winchester to Eastbourne

There’s always something special about finishing a hike by the sea — it’s that sense that you can’t go any further, that it really is the end of the road.

It’s certainly the conventional direction to walk the South Downs Way, ending in the bustling seaside town of Eastbourne on the English Channel.

But Winchester would make a fine finish too.

Eastbourne to Winchester

Winchester, the ancient capital of England, is a small city where history goes right back to the beginnings of the country, including the 950-year-old cathedral.

I love Winchester. The ancient buildings, green spaces, the pubs and cafes, the statue of Alfred the Great — they all combine to make it the perfect place to celebrate the end of the trail.

Why I Walked From Winchester To Eastbourne

It was a simple decision for me. I wanted to finish with a walk along the Seven Sisters Cliffs (the photo at the top of the page), towards the end of the hike, because that’s where my love of walking began. It just seemed right.

Is The Trail Well-Signposted?

It’s a well-waymarked trail mostly on good visible tracks — it’s highly unlikely you’ll get lost or walk far off the trail by mistake.

Maps, Apps And Guides

I used:

• Cicerone guidebook that came with a 1:25,000 map booklet
• OS Maps App. You can download my map and upload it to your own account.
• Silva Compass (I always have it with me, but I didn’t use it)

I also recommend:

• Harvey Map XT40 South Downs Way excellent for the full trail on one lightweight map
• OS Maps Explorer 1:25,000 series South Downs National Park
• The A-Z Adventure Series Official National Trails map booklets with 1:25,000 mapping
• Trailblazer guides. Trailblazer are my preferred publisher for any trail
• Hiiker — dedicated hiking app

Wild Camping And Campsites On The South Downs Way

If you love wild camping, you’ll enjoy the beginning of the trail where it’s much easier — the closer you get to Eastbourne, the more built-up the trail becomes.

I did a mix of campsites and wild camping, which worked out well.

Campsites And Hostels

The one place I wanted to stay was YHA Truleigh Hill. Of all the YHAs I stayed in back on my first backpacking trip, it’s the only one left. Nostalgia, curiosity — I couldn’t not go back! You can read my review of camping at Truleigh Hill in the separate article linked below.

The guide lists campsites and hostels right on the trail, and includes recommendations of places I stayed.

If you’re planning a flexible itinerary, it’s worth knowing that backpackers generally don’t need to book ahead. However, I recommend you phone on the day, especially for YHA camping.

• Campsites On The South Downs Way
• Camping AT YHA Truleigh Hill — my review

Wild Camping On The South Downs Way

The South Downs Way is pretty special for being entirely within a national park, so it goes without saying it’s a sensitive environment. For this reason, I wild camp on field edges, woodland, or Open Access land (What Is Open Access Land?). If there are signs in the area about nature reserves or ground-nesting birds, for example, I always walk on.

There are plenty of places you can safely tuck your tent out of sight on the first half of the trail, but don’t expect grand views. Towards the end, if you want to continue wild camping, a bivvy bag might be a good option. There are more busy roads and people about, so there are fewer opportunities to pitch a tent.

• Guides To Wild Camping In The UK
• Bivvy Camping — Beginner’s Guides

Resupply: Groceries, Pubs And Cafes

These are places I stopped or saw on the trail itself. There may be others, of course — if you have any recommendations that are on the trail, feel free to share them in the comments below.

Water Taps On The South Downs Way

The trail follows a crest of chalk hills and natural water sources are hard to come by. (It can be a long walk off the trail to buy any.)

For this reason, there are a number of public water taps along the ridge. Some weren’t working, but I didn’t find it an issue. Be sure to fill up when you can, especially in hot weather as there’s so little shade.

Some taps maybe turned off between November and April to prevent freezing.

Download the list: Water Taps on the South Downs Way PDF

1. Lomer Farm: SU 59105 23721 Tap on the signpost (Lomer Farm is on the trail south of Kilmeston village)
2. Meon Springs Fly Fishery (Whitewool Farm, Exton): SU 65484 21537 Easily visible on the trail as you pass the ‘clubhouse’
3. Queen Elizabeth Park Visitor Centre: SU 71236 20104 Visitor centre and public toilets
4. Manor Farm (near Cocking): SU 87861 16615 On a stone pillar on the tarmac lane
5. Near Amberley: TQ 02309 12384 Above a stone trough
6. Washington: TQ 11407 12871 By a signpost opposite a house
7. Botolphs: TQ 19729 09589 Trough under trees
8. Truleigh Hill YHA: TQ 22038 10532 Tap on the outside of the building near the main entrance
9. Saddlescombe: TQ 27164 11520
10. Housedean Farm: TQ 36821 09220 The tap is on a low wall right on the path
11. Southease: TQ 42311 05288 On the wall outside the church gate, next to a bench
12. YHA South Downs: TQ 43315 05489 Youth Hostel cafe (usually there’s an outside tap, too)
13. Seven Sisters Country Park: TV 51820 99503 Visitor centre and public toilets
14. Birling Gap: TV 55462 96035 Tap outside public toilets, but there’s also a National Trust Cafe

What I Got Wrong About Packing For The South Downs Way

Much of my gear was old and quite heavy, and in a last-minute fit of indecision, I packed a load of unnecessary stuff, including a guide book, a large sketchbook, a few too many clothes, and seven day’s food.

My base weight was a shocking 15.6 kg, and by the time I added the food and water, it weighed up to 20 kg. I have no idea how I stayed upright.

If your kit is on the heavy side, too, you need to be very strict: only pack what you absolutely need. And for this trail, you only need to carry 2-3 days worth of food, not seven, and a couple of litres of water.

• Osprey Renn 65 Rucksack Review The rucksack I used on the South Downs Way is still going strong — and is still available from Osprey in 2026.

Boots Or Shoes?

One of the most important considerations for this particular trail is what you wear on your feet: the chalk tracks are punishing (especially with 20 kg on your back!). It can feel like walking on sharp rock for miles and miles every day: you need plenty of cushioning, whether you prefer boots or shoes.

I recommend you pack a full lightweight ‘foot-care kit’. As a minimum, I’d include plenty of blister plasters, talc or Vaseline, nail cutters and padded socks. And, whenever you take a break, it’s worth taking your shoes off, even for ten minutes. The hardness of the surface can make your feet ache like you wouldn’t believe, and if your shoes don’t have enough padding, your feet will be shredded.

• How To Look After Your Feet On A Long-Distance Hike

I Came In On Budget

This hike was one of the rare occasions I set a budget and managed to stick to it. Here’s what it cost in 2021.

• Train Fares: £103.00
• Five Campsites £62.00
• Maps and Guides: £16.95
• Cafes and Groceries: £65.70
• Gas: £6.00

TOTAL COST £253.65

Prices have increased significantly since I hiked the trail, especially food. If I were planning the hike now, I’d add around £75 to the total, bringing the cost to more than £300 — but it would still be worth it.

What I’d Do Differently

I’d definitely hike the trail again, but I’d walk it in 6 days, including travel (it’s over five hours to Winchester from Cornwall). And, assuming I wasn’t ill a second time, I’d stay at fewer campsites and do more wild camping.

The biggest change, though, would be to the ridiculous weight of my rucksack!

Thankfully, I’ve got some lighter kit these days, and although I still have a way to go, I know that knocking even a few kilos off would have made the hike much more comfortable.

More South Downs Way Guides

If you’re following this route step by step, you might enjoy exploring the other guides in this series when you’re ready, just follow the link below.

Thanks for reading — I know it was a long one! — and enjoy your planning.

Happy Hiking!