The Tamara Way Guide: The Good, The Bad, And Why I Bailed

Explore A New Hiking Trail Along The Devon-Cornwall Border

The trail promises 87 miles of lovely scenery that loosely follows the River Tamar along the county border (marked in black on the map). It has the bonus of making a ‘circuit of Cornwall’, joining with the South West Coast Path in the north and south to create a 387-mile trail. But does it live up to its promise? Put your feet up and read on for a candid trail report and a guide to planning your hike – if you decide this one’s for you!

Highlights Of The Tamara Coast-To-Coast Way

While there were a few memorable highlights on the Tamara Way, overall, it was a big disappointment. However, I highly recommend one particular section of the trail: The Tamar Valley Discovery Trail.

On The Tamar Valley Discovery Trail

This older 30-mile trail has been integrated into the new coast-to-coast route and winds through the beautiful Tamar Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), starting at the village of Tamerton Foliot.

This section of the trail heads north-west to Lifton, passing through gnarled old beech woods alongside the River Tamar. The trees are cloaked in lush moss and ivy, shimmering with lime-green leaves above. In spring you can expect to see carpets of sweet-smelling bluebells and wild garlic, as well as views of rolling farmland and quaint hamlets (Luckett village is particularly attractive) that seem to have stood still in time – if you overlook the 4×4’s parked outside the cosy cottages, that is! Occasionally, there are sweeping views of the meandering river and its tributaries along the way.

It paints an idyllic picture of how I imagined the entire trail would be (Plymouth excepted), but unfortunately, that wasn’t the case.

Estuary views

The Lowlights Of The Tamara Coast To Coast Way

Stage 1 Cremyll to the Tamar Bridges

Why I Rank This The Worst Trail I Ever Hiked – And Why I Bailed

Every long-distance trail has its low points, whether it’s the brief stretches of busy road linking one beautiful section to another or the struggle to find a place to pitch a tent or resupply. With some research and planning, you can usually overcome these issues. On The Tamara Way though, it’s not quite so easy.

There’s no escaping the miles of tarmac and fast traffic; stage 5 alone stretches 18 miles without any warning signs that there may be walkers on the road. And there’s no avoiding the fact you have to walk miles off-trail to buy water and food. There are no commercial campsites along the whole trail and it was difficult to find suitable wild camping spots. Outside of Plymouth, there’s a lack of public transport to help you leave the trail to find one. In fact, I found public transport was a big issue along the majority of the trail – unless you happen to be passing through somewhere on the one day a week a bus is due! (Genuinely.)

Finally, for a trail that promises to follow the River Tamar along the Devon-Cornwall border, there are lengthy stretches without a river in sight, even in the distance. Most of the ‘scenery’ consists of tall Cornish hedges lining the roads and you won’t see anything over them. However, in summer, the hedges may be full of vibrant wildflowers adding a splash of colour to break the tedium.

There were occasional views from the tarmac roads, lanes and pretty villages (peering over hedges!), these were the best (some are in the AONB)

There’s A First Time For Everything

By Day 4 on the trail, I’d reached my limit – endless stretches of tarmac, fast traffic, no water, and nowhere to camp. I was fed up with it all, so I decided to bail for the first time. Usually, I’d push through, but after studying the map I realised it would likely be more of the same, so I changed course.

The idea of another boring slog for most of the final 20 miles was depressing. It’s a shame because there’s a hidden gem at the end of the trail: Marsland Nature Reserve and the breathtaking cliffs of Marsland Mouth. Still, I didn’t want to waste another day of monotony when I could leave the trail at Bridgerule and head straight to the coast at Bude, which is equally stunning.

This choice meant missing out on Tamar Lakes though, where, as well as the lakes, there’s also a café and small campsite. Opinions about it seem mixed—some say, “It’s lovely,” while others dismiss it as “just a reservoir.” At this point of the hike, though, I didn’t care.

If, unlike me, you prefer to continue on the trail to Morwenstow I highly recommend the walk along the South West Coast Path to Bude. It’s about 10 miles and though not part of the Tamara Coast to Coast trail, this rugged, tough hike is worth the effort and would make a grand finale.

Circuit of Cornwall

Some of you may have your sights on a circumnavigation of the border of Cornwall, which includes the Tamara Coast to Coast Way plus the Cornish section of The South West Coast Path national trail. This roughly 390 mile hike would make a good alternative to the whole 630 mile South West Coast Path, if you’re limited for time.

I recommend you start a circumnavigation with the Tamara Coast to Coast Way at Cremyll and head north. This way, you’ll get the worst bit out of the way early on! The Cornish coast is magical, breathtaking, wild and simply beautiful in equal measure and it would be a shame to end your hike with the damp squib known as the Tamara Way!

Plan Your Hike

Plan your next adventure with confidence.
Join The Extra Mile and get the free From Dream to Trail workbook.

How Long Does It Take To Hike The Tamara Coast To Coast Way?

You can hike the entire Tamara Coast to Coast Way in about six days. If you need accommodation or resupply, plan for an extra day, as this will involve hiking off-trail. Additionally, if you decide to hike from the end of the trail at Morwenstow to Bude instead of relying on limited public transport (see below), I highly recommend adding another day to your itinerary. This will extend your hike to about 8 days in total.

How Long Is The Tamara Way, And Where Does It Start And Finish?

The official trail is 90.5 miles long. It starts at Cremyll, across the water from Plymouth, and continues north west to the source of the River Tamar, 3 miles from the coast. The trail then continues to the coast at the Devon/Cornwall border at Marsland Mouth. Finally, you hike a further few miles along the coast to officially finish at Morwenstow (where you can catch a bus to Bude – see below.)

However, if you need accommodation (campsites, b&bs, etc), even resupply/water, you should expect to hike over 100 miles, excluding the optional 10-mile coastal hike from Morwenstow to Bude. This additional day’s hike is worth considering though, not just for the spectacular scenery, but also because of the limited public transport from Morwenstow to Bude: there are only 3 buses per weekday and none at the weekend.

How To Get To And From The Tamara Way On Public Transport Via Plymouth

Getting To Cremyll (The Official Start)

The trail officially starts in Cremyll, however anyone using public transport will start in Plymouth and take the Cremyll Ferry from Stonehouse:

Train

Plymouth is the nearest railway station. From Plymouth station, you can either walk to Stonehouse for the Cremyll Ferry (just under 3 miles – my route on OS Maps includes waypoints for the coach station and bus stops) or walk to the Armada Way bus station (half a mile) to take a bus to Stonehouse.

Coach

Plymouth Coach Station is on Armada Way and serves National Express, Megabus, etc. From there you can either walk or take a bus to Stonehouse for the Cremyll Ferry (described above).

Ferry

Take the Cremyll ferry from Stonehouse to the start of the trail at Cremyll (every 30 minutes all year round – a fabulous 8-minute journey, which cost £2.50 in 2024).

Royal William Yard, Plymouth, from the ferry

Getting Back

There are regular buses from Bude to Plymouth. To get to Bude you can either continue your hike along the coast from Morewenstow (10 miles) or catch a bus from Gooseham or Morwenstow (currently 3 per day, Monday to Friday – but I recommend the fantastic coastal hike from Marsland Mouth (where the Tamara Way meets the coast) to Bude!).

My Itinerary

I hiked coast-to-coast from Plymouth to Bude (leaving the Tamara Coast-to-Coast Way at Marhamchurch). My total hike was 80.5 miles including off-trail sections at Launceston, Gunnislake and Bude.

Day 1, Plymouth to Blaxton. 21.5 miles

The day was broken into 2 parts as follows:

1. 3 miles: Plymouth to Stonehouse (for the Cremyll Ferry) via the South West Coast Path. This isn’t part of the trail, but if you arrive in Plymouth by train, this is a pleasant walk. A link to my route is in the Travel section above.
   
2. 18.5 miles: Cremyll (start of the trail) to Blaxton. As I mentioned above, I did a recce of this section in 2023. I hated it (who likes razor wire fences and dog shit?!), so I skipped 1.5 miles this time and took the train (which runs parallel to the trail) from Devonport Dockyard to St Budeaux Ferry Road station. (Devonport Dockyard station is just after the Torpoint Ferry (the second ferry crossing of the day) and St Budeaux Ferry Road is close to the iconic Tamar Bridges.) If you decide to hike the whole way, you’ll hike 20 miles + 3 miles if you walk from Plymouth to Cremyll.

Today’s hike began on a winding footpath and peaceful road around the estuary to the village of Millbrook. The views across the water to Plymouth were stunning and definitely one of the highlights of the day.

Some of the best views of day 1 are around the Estuary on the way to Millbrook

For most of the way, the trail followed tarmac lanes and roads that take you around HMS Raleigh and through some unattractive housing estates, eventually leading to the Torpoint Ferry. After the ferry crossing it’s mostly a slog through Plymouth’s urban sprawl until you reach the impressive sight of Brunel’s Albert Bridge (see the image at the top of the page). Then it’s more slog – there’s even a putrid smelling sewerage works to enjoy – until the trail eventually reaches Budshead Wood and then Tamerton Foliot. The scenery became so much softer and greener, and I finally felt like I could take a deep breath and relax!

My day wrapped up at Blaxton Wood where I was lucky to find a cosy spot for my first wild camp right beside the river. After all the noise and pollution it felt amazing to drift off to sleep nestled in nature, listening to the soothing sounds of birds and the barks of muntjack deer that echoed along the water. It was the perfect end to what turned out to be a pretty grim day!

My first wild camp on the Tamara Way

Day 2, Blaxton to Calstock. 9 Miles

Today’s hike followed the Tamar Valley Discovery Trail, and the scenery was stunning!

First, there was an early morning walk through Blaxton Woods, where the wild garlic was in full bloom and smelled heavenly! I was heading to Lopwell Dam to cross the River Tavy, but the timing was off, and I had to wait several hours for the tide to fall. There was a silver lining though – I got to cook my breakfast right beside the river and watch the rain on the water listening to the birds – a couple of my favourite things! Plus, I had a chat with a couple of friendly dog walkers, which helped pass the time.

But that wasn’t the last adventure of the day! I also had to wait for a train as the trail included a short train ride from Bere Ferrers to Calstock to cross the River Tamar. Unfortunately, the trains don’t run that often, and I ended up losing 4.5 hours hiking time throughout the day. That’s why I didn’t get as far as I’d hoped, but there was still something wonderful waiting for me at the end.
.

Calstock

I stayed with hosts Jane and Ian, who I met on the trail close to their home. After a conversation about lack of water and anywhere to buy food, Iain said, “Come and meet my wife, and please stay.” Ian explained that he and Jane are members of WarmShowers, a reciprocal network that connects cycle tourists with hosts worldwide. It was getting late, so I gratefully accepted! I’d never experienced that sort of generosity on a trail and an evening with like-minded people talking about our travels and favourite places was unforgettable.

Even though the scenery was breathtaking that day, there was still too much tarmac for my liking and nowhere to buy water. I had a feeling this wouldn’t get any better over the coming days, and I was spot on! But first, I was excited to finish the rest of the Tamar Valley Discovery Trail.

Day 3, Calstock to Heal Barton (Liftondown). 19 miles

This is a long day and I recommend a short detour off the trail to the village of Gunnislake for supplies – make sure you have plenty of water.

William the Miner, a little off trail in Gunnislake village – a good place to buy water and groceries

I had such a wonderful time on the morning’s walk along the River Tamar! The path starts right next to the river on the edge of Gunnislake, which is really beautiful. Then, after I doubled back on myself to go into the village for supplies, the trail winds through plantations and magical-feeling woods where you can get close to the riverbank – a perfect spot for a break.

The trail continues through quaint villages and rolling countryside on roads, tracks and footpaths to Turchington. However, things took a turn for the worse here when a herd of cattle suddenly charged across a field towards me. I Just managed to scramble over a fence with seconds to spare. Cattle are the bane of my life, but since Cornwall and Devon are prime dairy country, you can’t escape them and encounters like this are pretty common. It definitely keeps your cortisol levels up!

The uneasy feeling stayed with me, especially as the last part of the walk was on roads. Roads make it challenging to find a wild camping spot, but thankfully I’d earmarked somewhere off-trail before I left home that, luckily, turned out to be ideal. After the afternoon I’d had, I needed it!

Day 4, Heal Barton to near Bridgerule. 18 Miles

Day 4 included a 6-mile round trip off-trail into Launceston for more supplies.

This hike was the straw that broke the camel’s back, although the challenges really began towards the end of day 3. Once you pass under the thundering A30 at Liftondown, you’re out of the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) – and it shows.

Unfortunately, the hike goes very quickly downhill (metaphorically!) before then. The relentless road walking starts at Turchington (still within the AONB) all the way to just beyond Bridgerule, a distance of 32 kms – which is 19.88 miles.

You read that right: almost 20 miles of continuous road walking!

It doesn’t matter what type of hiking shoes you wear; your feet and calves will definitely feel it after a few days of hiking on this much tarmac. When you throw in the traffic, limited views, no public transport and no grocery stores, what you have is a recipe for dismal backpacking.

With low expectations of the day ahead, I decided to take my time in a cafe in Launceston. I’d gone into town first thing to buy enough water to fill a bath, but honestly, this wasn’t as tedious as it sounds! Launceston is one of my favourite Cornish towns, full of history and fascinating architecture, including a well-preserved castle. I found it hard to get myself moving again!

As for the rest of the day, it was a monotonous, even dangerous, grind. Finding a campsite along the way was a non-starter and searching for a good place to wild camp was pretty fruitless. Eventually, I pitched my tent close to a hedge in an open field beside the road (aka the trail), hoping I wouldn’t be noticed by passing cars.

By the time I was in my sleeping bag, I’d already decided to look for an alternative route. I’d had it with the Tamara Coast to Coast Way; the thought of even more road walking the next day filled me with anger and disappointment, and my motivation to complete the Tamara Coast to Coast Way was well and truly gone. Instead, I decided I’d hike straight to Bude.

Day 5, Near Bridgerule to Upper Lynstone, Bude. 10 Miles

Another 10 Miles Of Tarmac?

Another 10 miles of tarmac? Oh go on then, you know I love it!! I also love camping and always follow the 7 principles of Leave No Trace, but will someone please remind drivers that it applies to them too? I collected an entire carrier bag of rubbish beside one junction alone. Still, it gave me something to do since there wasn’t much to see until I left the trail at Marhamchurch where I joined the Bude Canal

Listen out for sedge warblers on Bude Canal

And what a treat the Canal was! It was lush, even on a straight path in the cold and rain! Seeing birds for the first time in miles was really uplifting, but the icing on the cake was hearing sedge warblers for the first time. That, and the thought of a hot cup of coffee in a warm cafe in Bude!

Once I’d warmed up, I made my way to Upper Lynstone campsite, just a short walk from the town centre. It’s a great site with level pitches for backpackers, hot showers and a good shop – the best way to end a hike.

Day 6, Exploring Bude. 3 Miles

Fascinating geology on the beach

Whether you arrive in Bude via the Bude Canal or along the cliffs from the end of the Tamara Way at Morwenstow, it’s worth exploring. I spent a couple of hours mooching around the town and exploring the geology on the beach before catching the bus home, and, as usual, I loved it!

Navigation, Maps And Guides

The trail is well-signposted, but a map is useful if you intend to head off the trail for resupply or accommodation.

The route is covered on several OS 1:25,000 paper Explorer Maps (108, 111, 112 and 126), although it may not be marked as yet as it’s a new trail. The OS Explorer App, however, does show the trail, and you can also download GPX files from the official website.

Buy the official Tamara Coast to Coast Way guidebook here.

I found the guidebook to be large, heavy and difficult to use. It weighs 300g (although it’s listed as 0.75 kg on their website) and contains 250 full A5 pages.

There was too much information for the backpacker, I felt; for example, an entire A5 page on Calstock, a village of around 700 residents. Additionally, several pages are dedicated to the history of Bude Canal, while other sections discuss what a milestone may or may not read, along with details of places where bridges and pubs used to be. The guide also includes countless side routes and alternatives, all presented in a confusing way.

I think it’s best to use the guide to find any specific information you might need and then leave it on the shelf at home.

Wild Camping And Campsites on The Tamara Way

Wild camping isn’t easy: expect to stealth camp in woodland (one of mine was off-trail) and potential field edges – don’t expect a wild camp with spectacular views. You should also be prepared to walk long distances each day as you’ll be hiking along stretches of road or in built-up areas where you won’t find anywhere safe. Always ask permission if you can, and leave no trace.

Campsites don’t exist on the trail. The two that I did find listed are off trail near Bridgerule, towards the end of the trail, and both were only open for about 6 weeks a year from July. One very unhelpful receptionist told me to “walk into Bude”. I’d already hiked 15 miles at that point, it was about 5pm, and Bridgerule was a good few miles away – and Bude was another 13! (There’s no public transport to get you there either.) If you’re doing the whole trail there is a small, seasonal family campsite towards the finish at Tamar Lakes, as I mentioned earlier.

Bude has a couple of good campsites close to the coast path and town centre. I stayed at Upper Lynstone (for the 4th time, I think), about a 10-minute walk from the town centre. It has great facilities and a few level pitches just for backpackers (£15).

Cafes And Resupply

• Costa cafe (I usually find a chain store so that I know I can charge my phone, etc, without hassle): Plymouth, Launceston and Bude

Tried and tested resupply:

• Plymouth: a few convenience stores along Armada Way (on the way to the ferry) as well as a larger Tesco Express
• Gunnislake: Premier (Gunnislake Stores) – well-stocked convenience store (slightly off-trail)
• Launceston: large Co-op (approximately 3 miles off-trail)
• Bude: large Co-op (whether you use this store will depend on where you finish your hike)

Passed along the route (not tested):

• Turchington (south of Lifton): seasonal honesty box/cabin beside a farmhouse – sadly it was closed when I passed, but there was plenty of water, drinks, crisps, etc inside
• Lifton (just west of the village): Strawberry Fields – a large farm shop cafe/restaurant open 7 days a week (check for times – it was closed when I passed by in the afternoon)
• Bridgerule: a new village community shop was opening shortly after my hike
• Several pubs, including The Royal Inn at Horsebridge. I’ve visited in the past and it was lovely back then! Others are often marked on OS Maps or described in the official guidebook

My Costs in 2024

Open the dropdown lists for details.

TOTAL COST: £101.83

Variable costs (cafes and resupply): an average of £10.11 per day

Trail Diaries

There are 4 video diaries in the Tamara Coast To Coast Way series. Watch them on Youtube to get a ‘real time’ perspective – and I’d love it if you subscribe to my channel too!

Final Thoughts – Don’t Take My Word For It!

This trail wasn’t for me, but that doesn’t mean it might not be for you – these things are subjective, after all. I hated all but 30 miles of it, plus a 6-mile off-trail round trip to Launceston, but you could be looking for a different experience to me.

However, if you have limited time for hiking during the year, you’d be wise to spend it on a trail with guaranteed views or that offers something that particularly interests you. If I only got to do one hike a year, I can’t imagine the disappointment I’d feel if it was this one!

Thanks so much for reading. I appreciate it and hope you enjoyed it! Let me know your thoughts on this trail in the comments – have you done it?

Happy hiking!